As a DIY skincare maker, you may have come across the terms Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) emulsions. Let's take a closer look at the differences between these two options and when you might choose to use them.
What is an emulsion?
Simply put, an emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that don't normally mix together, like oil and water. In skincare, emulsions are created by adding an emulsifier to the mixture. Emulsifiers are ingredients that allow the oil and water-based ingredients to blend together and stay that way.
Oil in Water or Water in Oil?
There are two main types of emulsions in skincare - Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) - and they have some important differences.
The type of emulsion you choose will depend on the type of product you're making and the results you want to achieve.
Oil in Water Emulsions
In an O/W emulsion, tiny droplets of oil are dispersed throughout a continuous phase of water. This type of emulsion is often used in products like lotions and serums, and is popular because it has a light, non-greasy feel. O/W emulsions are ideal for products that require a high concentration of water-based ingredients. They also tend to be quickly absorbed by the skin.
- Serums
- Toners
- Light face lotions
- Moisturising gels
- Hydrating masks
- After-sun products
Water in Oil Emulsions
In a W/O emulsion, tiny droplets of water are dispersed throughout a continuous phase of oil. This type of emulsion is often used in products like cold creams and hand creams and is popular because it provides a heavier, more occlusive feel. W/O emulsions are ideal for products that require a high concentration of oil-based ingredients. They tend to be more moisturising, can feel long-lasting, making them perfect for situations that require deeper moisturisation,
- Cold creams
- Hand creams
- Body creams
- Night creams
- Foot creams
- Nappy rash creams
- Protective creams and balms
- Waterproof sunscreens
What Emulsifier to Use?
Emulsifiers are the ingredients that hold O/W and W/O emulsions together. They're what makes it possible to mix oil and water-based ingredients and get a smooth, stable product. Olivem 1000 and Olivem 900 are two popular emulsifiers used in cosmetics.
Olivem 1000
Olivem 1000 is a natural emulsifier that is well-suited to creating O/W emulsions. It is derived from olive oil and can create a stable emulsion with a silky and smooth texture.
Olivem 900
Olivem 900 is derived from natural olive chemistry and is great for creating water-in-oil emulsions. It's particularly effective when working with high levels of lipids (oils or fats) in a formulation, producing thick emulsions that are perfect for protective products like nappy rash creams or hand creams.
Understanding emulsions and the different types of emulsifiers is crucial for creating effective skincare products. Try experimenting with O/W and W/O emulsions and different emulsifiers like Olivem 1000 and Olivem 900, and feel the differences.
The key to learning and creating skincare is to practice and experiment. And here's a tip, don't forget to write everything down. That way when you create a brilliant (or disastrous) cream, you can refer back to your method to understand exactly what you did.
Happy Making!
